Help! How Can I Stop My Cat Attacking Me?

Author: Jenny Jackson

Cat aggression towards owners is a common problem and can be very distressing, not to mention painful! There are a range of reasons why your cat might be doing this. If you can identify the cause, then a solution is more likely to work.

Pain

If your cat has recently become aggressive, he or she may be in pain. No doubt you are pretty grumpy when you have a headache or toothache, and cats can experience these things too. If your cat has a condition like osteoarthritis, it may be more uncomfortable later in the day, and this may be when she becomes aggressive.

Play aggression

If your cat is fairly young, he or she may actually be playing with you. Kittens are most likely to play fight. Theories suggest that it helps kittens to strengthen their muscles, develop eye-muscle coordination and learn gentle social play. As the kittens get older, the amount of play aggression increases and gets rougher, eventually leading to the dispersion of the litter. Owners often find young cats sneaking up, biting and ambushing passing ankles instead.

You will need to redirect the cat's behavior towards inanimate objects instead of you through active play with toys that move. When the cat becomes aggressive, a squirt of water or startle noise can help them learn not to attack you. You might consider introducing another cat of about the same age so that the play occurs between the cats instead of involving you.

Predatory aggression

The instinct to hunt is triggered by the sight or sound of moving prey. Hunting behaviors are instinctive so eliminating them is not possible. They can, however, be directed into acceptable outlets. Encourage active play with moving toys and direct the behavior toward objects that can withstand claws and teeth. If your cat is allowed outside, it can expend some energy hunting insects instead of you.

Redirected aggression

When a cat becomes upset, it would normally direct the aggression toward the source, however, if the source is not accessible, the cat may redirect the aggression towards something closer such as you, a dog or another cat. Unfortunately, the association between a victim and a stressful event can stick for a long time, so that every time the cat is around the victim, it is reminded of the incident and may attack again.

Prevention can be easier than cure. Don't try to calm or handle an upset cat. There are times, however, when this is impossible. The most common solution is long-term separation of the cat from its target, but this can take a long time. Alternatively, your vet can prescribe anti-anxiety medications that you can combine with gradual reintroduction and rewards. If the victim is a cat that has become excessively fearful of the aggressive cat, it can also be treated to reduce its fear and increase its boldness.

Maternal aggression

Mother cats with young kittens are naturally protective of their young. Hormonally-influenced aggression is strongest during the first week after birth and gradually diminishes as the kittens get older. This is normal behavior. If you need to handle the kittens, try to keep a kitten between you and the mother cat. It is unlikely that the new mother will go over a kitten to attack you.

If you have an ongoing problem with cat aggression, it is best to speak with your vet to discuss various behavioral solutions. Medication is usually only for extreme cases, but can be helpful until behavioral measures are working.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/help-how-can-i-stop-my-cat-attacking-me-397083.html

About the Author:Jenny is a cat lover and webmaster of www.great-pictures-of-cats.com . You are welcome to reproduce this article on your pet or family related web site, as long as you reproduce the article in full, including this resource box and link to her website featuring photo and video galleries of beautiful cats.

Horses for sale, stallions at stud, rescue horses

by Shannon Margolis Shannon Margolis

Several breeds and types of horses are used in a wide variety of activities and the majority of horses are owned and managed for recreation or sport and not for profit by the owners. One of the greatest expenses in owning horses is feed. Feed costs can be minimised by keeping the horse healthy and by feeding a balanced ration that meets the horses nutritional needs.

More myths are associated with feeding horses than with feeding most other animals. This is in part due to the lack of current nutritional research information as well as an increasing number of horse owners who are unfamiliar with the basics of horse nutrition. Nutritional needs will vary considerably among horses depending on individual age, weight, and level of activity. There are no magic supplements, high performance feed "secrets", or short cuts that will transform any horse into a champion. Horses naturally use forages as a primary component of their diets. Adequate forages are a basic necessity for normal functioning of the horses digestive system. This requirement for forages is most easily supplied by pasture and hay.

Mature horses will generally consume 2 to 2.5 percent of their body weight in feed each day. For example, a 1,000 pound horse should consume approximately 20 to 25 pounds (90 percent dry matter) of feed per day. The anatomy of the horse's digestive tract restricts effective digestion and utilisation of low quality forages that are high in fibre. The poor digestion of low-quality forages can restrict the amount of dry matter that a horse can eat to a level below what is necessary to meet the horses nutrient needs. Therefore a premium should be placed on using high-quality forages in the horse's diet.

Ideally, horses should consume a minimum of 1 percent of their body weight in hay or pastures each day. Mature horses performing minimal or no work can be maintained on high quality forages without supplementing their diet with grain. However, growing, breeding, or working horses require supplementing the forage with a grain or concentrate to meet their additional nutrient requirements. As a general rule, forages should supply one half or more of the total weight of the feed consumed daily for optimum horse growth and development.

Forages can provide varying amounts of the nutrient requirements depending on the forage quality and amount consumed. The nutrient content of the forage and concentrate in the horse's diet must be known to properly balance the diet. Once the quality of the feeds are known, then proper amounts of each can be calculated to meet the nutrient requirements.

Pasture for Horses

High-quality, properly-fenced pasture represents one of the best and least expensive sources of summer feed for a horse. In addition, a well kept pasture can provide the most natural and healthy environment for exercise and rest.

Productive, well-managed pastures can provide most of the feed requirements of horses at the lowest cost. In fact, good pasture alone is sufficient to meet all of the nutritional requirements for many classes of horses. Yet, poorly-managed pastures supply little or no feed, and are frequently the source of many internal parasites.

General guidelines for the pasture needs (if the pasture is to serve as a feed source) for horses which have a mature weight of 1000 to 1200 lbs are:

Mare and foal 1.75 to 2 acresYearlings 1.5 to 2 acreWeanlings 0.5 to 1 acre

When acreage is very limited (less than one acre per horse), exercise may be the main use of the pasture. Pasture for this purpose will not supply more than a minimum amount of feed. However, with limited pasture pasture acreage, rotational grazing systems are the most effective method to maximise forage production and consumption. In this system, a group of compatible horses can graze a paddock (area of divided pasture) for approximately 3 to 6 days and then be moved (rotated) to a fresh paddock.

Hay for Horses

High quality hay can provide most of the nutrients needed for a mature horse. High quality hay is cut early and is leafy, green in color, and is free of must, mould, dust, and foreign material such as weeds and stubble. This type of hay is usually rich in energy, protein, minerals and vitamins, and is readily consumed by horses.

Alfalfa hay, while normally high in protein, may contain an excessive amount of calcium in relationship to phosphorus (wide Ca:P ratio) when fed as the sole source of forage to young, growing horses.

To be sure of the nutritive quality of the hay which is being fed, have it analysed.

Health Concerns when Feeding Forages to Horses

Horses are extremely susceptible to moulds, fungi, and other sources of toxic substances in forage. Mould problems generally occur in hay that has been baled at too high a moisture level (20% or more) without the use of a preservative. This is especially a problem with first cutting hay because it is harvested during a period of time when it rains frequently and the weather conditions are less than ideal for hay drying. Always use clean, unmouldy forages when feeding horses. In addition to moulds and fungi, some forage species contain chemical compounds that can have negative health effects on horses.

Poisonous plants in pastures or hay can be fatal to horses. Some poisonous plants are highly palatable and should be identified and removed from pastures. However, many poisonous plants are not palatable and horses will not eat them unless there is inadequate forage available to meet their needs.

Shannon Margolis is the author of this article on Horses. Find more information about Nutritions here.

Article Source: http://www.articlegarden.com

German Shepherd - Dog Breed Info

Author: John Williams

The German shepherd dog also known as Alsatian in France, UK and Ireland, and more commonly in France as "Berger Allemand", Schaferhund and by the acronym GSD or simply German shepherd. This dog breed is originally bred for herding sheep. German shepherd dogs are one of the most popular breeds in UK with 12,857 registrations and also in US with 43,575 registrations. These breeds are best for working as guide dogs for the blind, police work, guarding, search and rescue, therapy and in military. German shepherds can also make loyal and loving pets inside the home. These dogs are sociable and it is necessary for young puppies in order to prevent aggressive and dangerous behavior is an adult. The standards for the breed differ by country and organization. The general definition of the German shepherd dog is large and strong dog between 75 and 110 lbs but can reach 150+lbs. Males will reach the height 24-26 inch (60-65cm) and females will reach the height of 22-24 inch (55-60). The dogs has double coat with under coat and outer coat fur. Short haired dogs are preferred while some of the organizations accept long haired German shepherds. The coats of these are in black with tan, sable or all black but also will come in blue, liver and white which are considered a fault according to most standards. White is not acceptable for the German shepherd and now recognized as a separate breed known as American White shepherd. The nose is normally black but with blue or liver will occur sometimes and considered as a fault. The body of German shepherd dogs are elongated, sturdy, and muscular with a light but solid bone structure. The head should be proportionate with the body and a little convex head. Ears are wide at the base, pointed, upright and turned forward but of puppies less than six months may droop slightly. The eyes are almond-shaped, dark with a lively intelligent expression but never protruding. The tail is bushy and will reach to the hocks and hangs down when it is at rest. The front legs and the shoulders are muscular and the thighs are thick and sturdy. The feet are round with soles. There are three varieties of the German shepherd. They are rough coated, long rough coated and the long hared. German shepherd is used as working dogs which are direct and fearless, eager and alert. The dog is known for its courage and loyalty towards their masters. They are confident but not hostile, high learning ability, serious, almost human in his intelligence and obedient. They bark, if it is necessary and love to be close to their families.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/german-shepherd-dog-breed-info-398497.html

About the Author:For more information on the german shepherd dog or dog breeds list, take a look at this Dog Training website.

Five Steps for Taking Care of a New Kitten

by Grant Eckert

Bring home a new kitten can be an exciting time for anyone - whether you've owned a kitten before or not. But in order to be the best owner you can, you will want to take a few steps in the beginning of their lives. These kittens are not just small cats; they require different forms of help in order to grow up healthy and social. Here are five steps for taking care of a new kitten that will help you bond with this new bundle of fur.

Litter Training

One of the first things you need to consider in owning a new kitten is their litter training. While some younger kittens have already been trained by the time you get them, those that have not will need your help. Thankfully, litter training a cat is much easier than house breaking a dog, so this isn't something that will take a long time to accomplish.

Take your kitten to the litter pan when they are brought home and place them in it. They are naturally curious so they will walk around and scratch at the clay as they move. Take their paw and gently move it in a digging motion to help them see what they can do with this litter. Most cats will naturally understand what is supposed to happen in the pan, so you generally don't have to train them in the same sense you train a dog. When they begin to go to the bathroom elsewhere, just move them to the litter pan and repeat the scratching motion with their paw.

Eventually, you will want to come up with a litter location for them to use. If you have other cats, it can help for you to place a different litter box near the 'regular' litter pan. This will help the kitten see what the others are doing, while also allowing them a little privacy as they get used to the litter. You should use regular litter that they will see on a day to day basis - clay based is very popular and easy to scoop.

Introducing the Kitten to Other Cats

If you have other cats, this is going to be the more difficult step in raising a kitten, especially when your other cats are much older. To help make this process easier, you will want to place your kitten in a separate room than the other cats, with the door closed. This will give them time to get used to your home, learn about the litter pan, etc.

Your other cats will come up to the door to 'check out' the new kitten, so let them meow at each other and paw at each other from under the door. Each day, slowly let out the kitten for a few minutes to let the other cats get to know them, gradually allowing more and more time together - supervised, of course. This should help to prevent too many personality clashes.

Feeding of Your Kitten

Since a kitten's digestive system is different from an adult cat's, you will want to treat it differently. Find a simple kitten formula of food that the kitten can eat, keeping it away from any other cats as it's not good for their digestion. Your kitten should be eating up to five times a day at first, slowly moving toward a less frequent meal pattern.

This will help them learn to eat only smaller amounts as their digestion system develops.

Getting the Proper Shots

Taking your kitten to the vet is a very important part of their future health. You will want to make sure you are getting them checked for any problems, getting their vaccinations, and having them fixed as soon as it is recommended. This will help your cat stay healthy and strong, plus this appointment will begin to establish your relationship with the vet in case of medical issues that come up.

Playtime with Your New Kitten

But the best step of taking care of a new kitten is playing and interacting with them - and it's necessary for proper development. You want to touch and play with your kitten as much as you can as they are growing up to help them feel safe and loved. If you have a job that keeps you away for a lot of the day, be sure to make the most of the time you do have when you arrive home.

You don't have to play with toys or with anything expensive either. Simply petting your kitten and dancing a piece of string in front of them can make them feel like a part of your family.

Kittens grow up to be adult cats eventually, but when you take the time to love and nurture them right from the start, they will also be your companions for life.

About Author: Grant Eckert is a writer for VetRxDirect. VetRxDirect is a leading provider of Pet Medications

Article Source: http://www.articlegarden.com/

Dog Training Electronic Fences - Benefits and Disadvantages

by Moses Wright

Consider carefully the advantages and disadvantages of electric fences before purchasing one. You should note that electric fences, or E-fences as they are commonly called, are wired with transmitters that are earthed and running through the ground. These wires will emit a noise, shock or an unpleasant smell. The odors are triggered via a special collar on your dog, to discourage the dog from going too near to the fences. Signals are transmitted to the collar should the dog venture too close and the deterrents are activated.

Due to certain rules and specifications by the Home Association rules in certain precincts, standard fences may not be allowed and the e-fence could be an alternative. An e-fence provides a solution for owners who have no front yards or backyards and cannot erect a standard fence, yet desire to own a dog.

There are disadvantages that require one to think through.

For the e-fence to be effective, dogs need to be trained well and the e-fence should not be a stand-in for behavioral training. Dogs need to be taught to associate the deterrent with boundary limits. If this is not done, the e-fence will be rendered useless.

Bear in mind that as with all electrical equipment, it is not guaranteed to work all the time. They can be shorted by an electrical surge or lightning strikes, though not common and digging around the perimeter can also cause problems. Flags are first used to visually denote and designate the periphery when the e-fence is first erected, however, once the dog has been taught, the flags are taken down. If they are left as they are, they can be shifted or moved by children or by machinery such as lawnmowers as well as a multitude of other factors. There is a chance that they could cut or wound when they are extracted.

Should your dog persist despite the discouragement received from the collar, it will learn that there is no actual boundary and will be less willing to stay within the specified periphery.

Electric jolts are seen by detractors to be a form of abuse and an adverse method of gaining the desired response from your pet.

Your decision regarding an e-fence needs to be evaluated according to your situation. If kept entirely indoors except for when leashed, a dogs' need to run is denied, resulting in an unhappy and maladjusted pet. This situation can be resolved with access to a dog park, however, not may are lucky enough to have a dog pak in their vicinity, so it could remain an issue.

Although building standard fences seems to be a logical method to cope with the issue, large dogs are liable to jump over these fences, causing injuries to themselves such as scratches and cuts from the sharp edges of the fences. Though the wound may be minor, a dogs' tendency to bite or scratch at them can make the injury worse, meaning a trip to the vet is required. An e-fence could be a more prudent choice, depending on the situation.

Every circumstance and situation is different, based on living conditions, type and character of dog and training techniques, so there is no overall effective method that can be implemented by every dog owner. Rather, do consider carefully the needs of different circumstances after acquiring adequate knowledge in order to make the best decision possible.

However, if you still decide that an e-fence is the best bet for your specific circumstances, you should note that you must be prepared to deactivate the e-fence if it does more harm than good for your dog.

Moses Wright owns 3 beautiful well-trained dogs. He created a pet dog problems and solutions site to help fellow dog owners stop their dog behavior problems. You can find more pet dog training tips on his site.

Article Source: http://www.articlegarden.com

What to Do to Remove That Cat Urine Stain on the Carpet?

Author: Andy Rogers

So you want to remove that cat urine stain on your carpet or furniture. Wondering which cat urine remover should you select. What is the process to select a cat urine remover?

Most importantly how to find the cat urine remover ? Or is there any home recipe for cleaning the stain at all?

It's a common dilemma. The scent of cat urine is strong, its stains are vivid. It becomes very difficult to remove from carpet, flooring,upholstery, or anywhere else. Realize that regular household cleaning products, such as carpet-cleaners can't remove the stain properly. Also you must avoid using ammonia or ammonia-based products. Ammonia smells similar to cat urine, so these products will only encourage the cat to urinate in the area again.Your cat will still be able to smell the urine, which tells the cat that it's a good spot to urinate.

Don't go for fragrance cover up products. This will not fix your cat urine problem. If you are going to buy a cat urine remover, make sure the cat urine remover is simple to use which saves you time. An effective product will be one that doesn't merely suck up or absorb stain but cleans it completely so that your cat doesn't soil again in the same area.

Applying vinegar is an effective home remedy for cleaning cat urine. Mix it with water in equal proportions and wet the problem area with this. If it's on carpet then you have to use enough solution to penetrate the fibres. Then dry it either with a fan or blotting with paper towels.The acidity of the vinegar will neutralize the ammonia in the cat urine.

Finding the exact spots on the mat to clean could be a major problem. the cat urine is not in the mat but in the mat padding underside so you need to try and remove that cat urine from deep down below the mat. Scrubbing the mat is usually not a good idea.This is a mistake often done by cat owners. What it does is that it absorbs the urine deep into its fibers and then the stain or the odor will be far too difficult to eliminate.

Realize that cats drink little water so their urine is very concentrated and stinking. That ammonia-like smell is so strong and annoying.Most people think cat urine is hard to remove.Cat's urine is rich in protein and if you learn diverse ways to remove it you will never get annoyed in the future.Also learn to train your cat so that he doesn't urinate again wherever he pleases.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/pets-articles/what-to-do-to-remove-that-cat-urine-stain-on-the-carpet-400015.html

About the Author:Cats drink little water so their urine is very concentrated and stinking. Cat urine problems are serious issues that a cat lover can't avoid.